Rihlah 6 : Day 6–> Karak - Amman

 

30th October 2012

Everyday feels great whenever we are on a rihlah. There will always be memories to be cherish, moments to be thought, lesson to be learn.

As Jordan is a country fill with historical eras, we couldn’t miss to walk back to the Islamic eras during the prophets days and the chaliphates. It will be a good lesson to learn and to be remember as a muslim. Today we will be heading to Karak Castle which was the Crusaders stronghold defeated Sallahuddin Al Ayubi. Later on, we will be visiting Mu’tah war sites and the maqam of th martyrs of three great important people in the life of prophet Muhammad (pbuh).  Both are an important event for the muslims.

We drove into town to Karak castle with the coordinate we obtain from google earth. The castle was in a middle of the a town on top of  a hill.  Making worst, the road entering the castle were small and crowded with cars parking at both sides of the road.  The small roads were fill with small shops, restaurants, becoming more challenging when driving Chevrolet Traverse in this small road.  Getting a car park was another challenge as well.  We made three full rounds in the area just to get a park which we nearly give up. We ask the guards at the tourist booth for parking area but they couldn’t help as well.  We saw one westerner cars behind us earlier got a parking space given by the shop owner to them though we were in front of them earlier.  Maybe we need to be whiter with brown hair, then we able to get the same treatment .  It frustrated us actually for the double standard we experienced but we just think positively to enjoy the trip.

Finally, on our forth attempt, we got the luck of a parking spot.  We don’t mind walking quite far to the castle as we have been waiting for the moment to imagine the strength of SAllahuddin Al Ayubi and to see the majestic Karak castle as seen in pictures.  There were no sign board telling the ticket booth but as we saw a few people lining up, w knew it must be the booth for the tickets.  We need to pay JD1 each including children compare to what was print in the internet which were JD2 each and free for children below 13.  Still, at the end we pay the same amount.

Karak Castle sure looks big from the outside.  Touring inside the castle impress us more. There are many passages and rooms which can easily confuse anyone of their whereabouts.  Many of the passages were dark which we didn’t enter as we didn’t bring any torchlight with us.  We wish there were more sigh board telling us the used of the rooms and pathways.  It will be great if there was a tourist guide to tell us more of the history.  Gladly they have an archeological museum in the lower court of the castle introducing local history and archaeology of the region from the prehistoric period until theIslamic era. Wish we could spend longer time in the museum.

This Castle is one among many Crusaders castle which were built around the 12th centuries. Built in a plateau on higher side of a hill which is 1000-m height above sea level.  One of the famous owner of this castle is Reynald de Chantillons who controlled the herd and trade path from and to Syria - Eqypt.

Most of the castle part has been renovated and added new parts- especially in the front section. Karak castle is an example of Crusader architecture, a mixture of European, Byzantine, and Arab designs. The castle was enlarged with a new west wing added by the Ayyubids and Mameluks.

At a very strategic location.  On top of hill which can oversee the whole city..

Just imagine how Salahuddin Al Ayubi able to conquer this majestic castle from the crusaders…

Great view from a window in the castle..

One wing of the castle….

More view of the castle…worth exploring to get the ‘feeling’…

 

The Crusaders had a very impressive security system and Kerak was the centre of power for many years as they resisted attacks from Salahuddin al Ayubi and his troops.  They were notorious for controlling the caravan routes and dominating the Red Sea but it was their attempted attack on Mecca that began their downfall, with Salahuddin al Ayubi finally capturing Kerak castle in 1189.  Even after this, ownership of the Castle changed quite regularly between local families until it finally fell into British hands after the First World War.

We still hunger for more in exploring the cave but the smaller kids starts complaining of their hungry stomach.  Like it or not, we have to move on.  We ask our older kids to take some more pictures on other passage we unable to explore so we won’t miss that much. 

Heavy hearted, we leave the castle with a deep aspiration of a great warrior…Sallahuddin Al Ayubi..the conqueror of Palestine who retook the holy land of Palestine from the hands of the crusader. Hope this trip will aspire them more in becoming a better muslim.

We continue our next journey to another Islamic historical sites which is the Battle of Mu’tah.`We first arrived at the battle sites before we encounter the shrine of the martyr of Mu’tah War.  We mistook a masjid near the sites as where the shrine will be.  As it was already Asr prayer, we went in to perform our solah but unable to find one for women.  We were quite surprised at first not to find anybody at the masjid though we heard the Azan already.  Just about 5 minutes later there was a man coming in and only we found out that it was not the mosque.  After the guys perform their solah, we get back to our car in order to find the right masjid.

Alhamdulillah, we saw two Malaysian students passed by the area.  it sure felt great when jumping into people from your own country.  It makes you felt like you’re at home.  With the help from them, we got the directions to the masjid for our next stop.

No wonder the masjid was small and unoccupied.  We knew we must be at the wrong place.  As we reach the right masjid, we can easily see the sign to the Zayd ibn Harithah and Ja’far ibn Abu Talib shrine.  As me and my daughter haven’t perform our prayer yet, we went in the masjid to perform our prayer before proceeding to the shrine.  The guys perform sunnah prayer while waiting for us.

 

Summary on the Battle of Mu’tah in 629, where the Byzantines outnumbered the Muslims by 200,000 to 3,000 of muslim army. Apparently the prophet Muhammad(PBUH) mobilized an army to confront Byzantine forces in the Levant (Jordan), because a Byzantine governor frequent attact on muslim caravan and had treacherously killed one of muslim emissaries. He appointed Zayd ibn Harithah as commander of the army and gave the following instructions: “If Zayd is wounded or killed, Ja’far ibn Abu Talib would take over the command. If Jafar ibn Abu Talib is killed or wounded, then your commander would be Abdullah ibn Rawahah. If Abdullah ibn Rawahah is killed, then let the Muslims choose for themselves a commander.”  All three commanders were killed and replaced successively as prophet Muhammed(PBUH) instructed.  (more detailed  can be read at http://www.islamweb.net/emainpage/index.php?id=157807&page=articles)

Sites of Battle of Mu’tah War.  Some said the sands even smell like fresh blood…subhanallah.  Only read about it after coming back…else shud try to smell.

Directions outside the masjid…

Inside the masjid…

The masjid entryway…

Shrine of Zaid bin Harithah ra and Jaafar bin Abu Thalib ra. The smell was so lovely…is this the smell of the syuhada’??

Once everyone finish praying, the imam of the masjid lead us to the shrine.A mix feeling altogether inside our heart.  We felt grateful getting the opportunity to be able to visit the great warrior and sahabah of our beloved prophet Muhammad(PBUH).  We pray the muslim ummah will look back at the seerah and turn back our life to the islamic teaching.  This goes the same to us and our children.  We really hope our kids will love and learn more of the sahabah who fought for Islam with all their heart. 

A spiritual journey to bring awareness on how nothing we are comparing to those who fought their life for Islam.

We then continue our journey to Amman as we have book the hotel online for 2 days.  While in Amman,we plan to  visit the dead sea and Jerash.

Rihlah 6 : Day 4–> Petra, Wadi Rum

 

28th October 2012

Yesterday was a wonderful and challenging day for the whole family.  So…for today it will only be the two of us.  Bringing kids to this kind of place is a different kind of fun.  It’s a historical and knowledgeable trip.  We tried to fill the kids with stories so that it will be an enjoyable one.  Still, the physical challenge kept them from accepting today’s exploration and today will be much earlier than yesterday since we need to get back to the hotel by 12 pm for check out.

As early as 7 am, we start our journey at Petra entrance.  It was a quiet and cold morning.  Since today will be only the two of us, the walking goes much faster and relax.  We took the opportunity to capture pictures which we have missed yesterday. So…our ‘honeymoon’ today will be climbing more of 800 stairs!  Well…we surely will be testing our fitness level.

While walking towards the siq, there were more number of people coming from the opposite direction.  They must be staying overnight in Petra.  It feels great when there is less people where you get to savour more of the sites and no one is following you persuading of using their services. 

Yesterday we have walk back to Urn tomb,street of facades, the theatre and royal tomb as the donkey boy disagree to let us get down from the donkey to explore those places.Today,we expected to stop by at the temple, collonade streets and The Monastry for our grand finale .  True..one day trip is not enough.  Even for two days,we still miss more spots. 

A very quite morning at the temple…

As we were walking at the temple, there were already men offering donkey services to the monastry.  We overheard the guy offering some western tourist JD5 going up to the monastry.  We were thinking of taking the donkey as we are short of time but still felt we able to walk if we continue walking at a fast phase.  The donkey boy told us yesterday that it would take nearly two hours of walking up  from the treasury and an hour going down.  Based on our worst time calculation, seems like we wouldn’t have enough time to be back at the hotel by 12 pm.

While we were considering an option of climbing up with donkey,the earlier guy we saw came near us and offered us his donkey at JD10 to go up.What!  Just now he can offer the western couple JD5 and charged double to his muslim brothers!  Having to face this,makes us determine to climb up on foot.

The early part of the climb were quite exciting.Having the great view with the unique looks of the stones, the surroundings lights up our spirit.  When we were half way up, i can feel the stress on my knee.  Now…i felt…maybe we should negotiate on the price. Who cares of the frustration…haha.  I though i was fit enough .

Along the way up, an American lady pass by and stop for a while where we were taking a break.  She inspired me to climb up as she is already 60 years old and much more energetic than me.  Now..i felt the challenge!  She really did inspired me as i am 22 years younger than her!

Force myself to climb up as a lady of 60s and teenage girls climb much faster than me…

Alhamdulillah, with the remaining energy and the support from beloved hubby, we able to reach the Monastry. Yes..it was worth the climb (though if were ask to climb again i would refuse ).  Well..it was not the end.  Since we are up here already, might as well we climb further up to the ‘Edge of the World’.  They call it since it felt like it is the edge when you look at the view from top.  It is the peak of the mountain from the monastry.  We took some rest and feast our eyes with the magnificent view.  Comparing to Saudi Edge of the world, we preferred to give the call to the one in Saudis.

Coming down again from the mountain, we passed back room 468 before going down to the Monastry.  it is called Room 468 from the total count of rooms in Petra.  Wow…like a special room of a hotel . Reaching back at the Monastry,we took some more pictures and take a deeper look at the monument.  The Nabataens workmanship really is a ‘no word can describe’ until it came accross our mind….well…maybe it is not done by human!  Maybe…jinn!  Haha!  Our theory maybe can’t be true as the jinn are not a good architect or carpenter based on the quran.

Wish to rent room 468?

The grand monastry…

Taking a break at a coffee shop in front of the monastry…very strategic location for a great view with a sip of coffee or juice…

The monastry or in Arabic called Al Deir is 40.2 metres wide and is carved deep into the side of the mountain. The door itself is 8 meters high. The main inside chamber is huge. It is 11.5 meters by 10 meters, and is lit only by light coming through the 8 meter high doorway. Wondering how big are the Nabataens compared to me!

Now we have to rush back to the hotel as we have only an hour left.  We run back down to catch the time.  Going down is much better than climbing up.  As it is near noon, the path starts to be busier with people, donkeys and donkey poop!  We just need to be careful with the poop on our way down . 

As we reach down, there were a few numbers of donkey owner offering their services.  We resist most of them at first but one guy made a good offer which we might be able to reach the hotel faster.  He offered us JD10 each for us to reach the parking where the usual service only offer transport until the treasury.  His offer did attract us as he will be giving us a different route (a back route) and we will be taken by car from his village to the parking spot which can save us time.

Look at my size comparing to the entrance…. 

As we are in a hurry, we accept the offer.  We were taken the back road which is used by local.  It was a different view.There were actually many more mountain rocks with ‘houses’ like in the Petra commercial centre but no extraordinary one to be seen. This is where it is said the village of Petra that can be explore if you do not want to pay. 

Going back on a donkey via the back way….

Thought we were amuse with its great workmanship, we remind ourselves..no matter how great man are at building or creating things, Allah is the greatest! Everything that happens is only with Allah’s will.

The back way is quite a journey.  It was worth riding on a donkey while savouring the beautiful surrounding.  The donkey ride now seems even more fun as we became more familiarise in controlling it which makes it more fun.  The chit chatting while walking up with the guy was worth while as well for us in understanding more of the people’s life and culture in Jordan. 

In about 20 minutes later, we arrive near his village quarters with his brother ready in his car waiting for us.  We jump into his car and went through the village small town before getting near to the parking area. 

With a little rush, we able to reach the hotel at 12 pm.  Alhamdulillah, the hotel gave us another hour to get ready before check out.  We have made arrangement for our one night stay at Wadi Rum with the help from the receptionist.  Tonight, we will be experiencing sleeping under the light of the star and the moon. 

After buying some souvenirs at a shop besides the hotel, we quickly rush to Wadi Rum where we supposed to meet a guy name Salem.  We have made arrangement with him to stay at his camp for JD175.  The stay is inclusive dinner, some minor hiking and a drive around Wadi Rum.

WADI RUM

From reviews, most visitors recommend Wadi Rum as a destination not to be miss when you are in Jordan.  Visiting here will give us the privilege of being closed to the nature and learning the life of the Bedouin.

What attract us more are the facts about Wadi Rum itself which was declare a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011.  Wadi Rum Protected Area is one of the world’s most outstanding desert landscapes, covering 720 square kilometers of dramatic desert wilderness in the south of Jordan. Its huge mountains and broad sandy wadis are home to several Bedouin tribes and a surprising range of desert wildlife.

Upon reaching visitor center at Wadi Rum, Salem our tourist guide had readily waited for us there.  By identifying our car with Saudi plate, he knew already it was us.  We were immediately asked to follow them inside the Wadi Rum quarters with the permission from the guard without the need to pay the entrance fee.  Maybe the package that we are paying already includes the entrance fee.  Btw, our package cost us JD175 for 2 adults and 4 kids, 1 infant of 1 night stay and 1 day jeep tour.  We also took a bbq lunch for the next day which cost us JD50.  Well, we already compare the price at the tourist centre for the services, so..we felt that we get a good bargain already.

Our jeep for the trip in Wadi Rum…

Not far from the visitor centre, parking lots are build for tourist to leave their car behind.  Quickly collecting our belongings for a one night stay in camp, we jump into the an opened air jeep modified for tourist to comfort while savouring the beauty of Wadi Rum from the jeep itself.  It is not a luxury one but nice.

We pass through the Bedouin village before entering the deserts of Wadi Rum.  Though we just entered the area, the view was magnificent. Further in, we are sure the view will be even more stunning.  It sure felt great savouring the beauty of Allah swt creation.  The rocks, the mountain and the sand with the sun shining ever corner of it, the beauty has shine more. 

Great view all the way to camp..just look how deep the tyres got into the sand…

As Salem, our guide drive us to our camp, we can see a few other camps along the way. The wind were quite strong and the drive were jumpy.  We had to shift our sitting number of times as we kept on sliding down from our seat when the jeep jump.  Still, the kids love it!

After about 15 to 20 minutes drive in the desert, we finally reach our camp sitting behind the mountain.  Ali the owner of the camp greet us.  He brought us around the camp to choose our tent.  We chose to stay in a smaller tent with 2 tenants each rather than staying together the whole family in one camp as the one big camp is more sandy and darker.  So, we took up three tents for the whole family while another two tent occupied by a couple of Hungarian family with their two kids.

Our camp..secluded, neat and strategic place for sunset and sunrise viewing…

Without wasting much time, we  continue our day by hiking up a hill not far from our tent in order not to miss watching the sunset.  The camp really had a strategic location for watching the sunset.  We settle down at an open area up the hill.  Another beautiful day which words can’t describe. Savouring the moment watching the colour of the sun, the sky and the desert blend together proving the greatness of Allah creation. 

Waiting for the sunset….

Our daughter exploring on her own while waiting for sunset….getting further and further…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Got the nerve to go till the edge??

Masyaallah…no words can describe the beauty of Allah’s creation….

We then went down back to our tent to clean up and perform our prayer while waiting for Ali and his brother who own the place to prepare us dinner.  We were wondering what kind of Bedouin dish we’ll be having.  Well, as there is no electricity we had to rely on the moon and the stars to give us some light.  Good thing, the kids got the toy torchlight to help us while in toilet in order not to miss our ‘shot’ when doing our job . 

We can felt the night starting to get cold when night grows older.  The dinner were ready with the candles to light our menu which was white rice, chicken broth Bedouin style, salad and humus.

As we were hunger for rice after two days trip with no rice, the meal sure was tasty specially when the dish is cook by a 16 year old youth…impressive indeed.

After the meal we sit around the campfire while drinking local tea and biscuit. The hot tea were a great relieve to heat up our bodies in the chill night air. It felt great sitting under the full moon and the stars everywhere shining up the sky. The nature sure is a beauty with nothing to compare to human creation. It was a fun night listening to Ali’s stories of Bedouin life, his parachute jumping experience and his learning experience. Don’t be surprised, he even take the extend to learn english overseas in ensuring himself able to provide the best experience for his customers.

We wish we could listen to more stories but we have to get up early for our next day exploration and the kids were sleepy as well. It was a great night having a host like Ali. We surely would recommend friends to stay at his camp. Having a double standard treatment most of the time, we sure appreciate very much Ali’s hospitality who treat us like old friends. We can’t wait to see more of what Wadi rum can offer us.

Boys…always have things to do…

‘Candlelight’ dinner….

Ali…makes you feel at home.  Love hearing his stories…

Watching the stars can be fun as well…

They gave us a candle enough to accompany us until we dooz off for the night.  In the tent we can hear the strong wind outside.  If we are in our normal tent, we are sure our tent will be flown away just by hearing the sound of the wind.  The idea of making the tent with ‘legs’ of about 10 inch high surely helps to prevent the sand from flying in.  Thought the wind actually scared us a bit but as the body was too tired from the climbing and hiking, plus the comfort comforter in the tent, it actually didn’t take long for us to settle our night.

Let see what Wadi Rum will offer us tomorrow.  Maassalamah! -&tw

Rihlah 6: Day 3 –> Petra

 

27 October 2012

It was a great beautiful morning with a fresh air to inhale…alhamdulillah. Even the room was without aircond,we slept comfortably with the natural cold air from outside.  It really was a great weather here during this time of the year.

When we reach the parking area nearby the visitor centre at around 9 am, it was already with quite a big crowd.  Starting last year,the entrance for tourist are JD50 for one day and JD55 for two days for adults and children more than 13. We took two days ticket  as advises from other tourist over the internet said 1 day won’t be enough.

From entrance to the siq…

After buying the ticket, we head to the entrance to have our ticket stamp. We was hoping for a smile for our bright beautiful morning but sadly were welcome with a sour face even our kids mentioned the sourness of the guy face.  We ask for Petra map and he still hand us with a grumpy face .  Well…maybe he had a rough day yesterday.  This surely won’t stop our excitement.

Petra has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985. It was also declared as the new 7 wonders of the world. The kids were excited as they able to witness one of the new 7 wonders of the world! We told them if they want to see the rest of the wonders of the world..study hard,earn your money and explore the world! .

At the entrance,the staff on duty told us that the horse ride is free which what was mention in the pamplet.  He told us to pay a tip of JD1 or JD2 for the ride.  So…we think why not.  Riding on the horse from entrance to the siq. Surely a fun experience for us specially the kids.  The unexpected happened was we were demanded to pay JD5 for each horse which comes to a total of JD30! What…from JD2 each to JD5????

We can’t have this experience hinder our excitement.  We positively sooth our mind thinking this as a sedekah and remembering the smile on the kids face having fun with the horse ride.

 

…before entering the siq preparing for our long walk….lots of walking indeed…

As we were heading near the entrance to the Siq, we can see a few army dress in more like a Romanian army standing straight welcoming tourist.  As we were excited to capture all the memorable events that we could possibly have, we eagerly walk towards the marching army to have our pictures taken unaware that actually you have to donate in order to take pictures!  We do not mind about the donation but we do mind about the amount we have to donate!  The guy who were taking care of the donations insist to have JD7 as we are 7 people though my husband only take part in taking pictures.  After hubby talk to him which i didn’t bother to hear after the first incident of the horse, we just gave JD3 and walk away.

The siq….

We quickly walk to the main entrance hoping to avoid any unexpected ‘fees’ and to let us enjoy our excitement to explore this new wonders. The main entrance to Petra is the Siq…dim, narrow gorge for about one mile and ends at the treasury…one of the most beautiful architect carved from just ONE stone!  Beware…while walking down the siq, the tunnel at times can be heavy with horse or carriage traffic coming back and forth.  While walking, we were being approach by some youngster offering donkey ride service!  Wow…we though we’ll be spending on tickets and food but will we be spending more on the unplanned expenses??

 

The treasury…amazingly carved from one stone…

We hesitate to take the donkey offer as we still feel energetic and still with disappointment with the horse ride earlier. The young donkey boys seems still with determination pushing us to take their ‘package’.  We politely reject their offer and continue savouring our eyes with the beauty of the siq in amusement until and the end with the passage we were awed witnessing an impressive architectural building famously called the Treasury.  Looking at the partial of the construction with the sunlight glimp directly at its entrance simply amazed at anyone looking at it.  One big block of stone turn into massive façade, 30m wide and 43m high.

While we were relaxing observing the architect of the Treasury and the people around, We didn’t notice the young donkey boys earlier on were still following us.  They still with high interest pursuing our family the donkey ride with so much reasoning until they actually able to change our mind!  As the kids were so eager to try the donkey ride..we negotiate with the boys and able to get JD60 for 6 donkey till the end down before the path to the monastery which takes about 1 and a half km.

Experiencing riding a donkey….not bad after all.  Actually…very relaxing .  They are easy to handle and obedient…never thought gonna like it .  Throughout the way, we pass through many other monuments, tombs, room…all with its own unique attraction.  We tried to stop by some of the big attractions like the Roman-style theatre which could sit 3000 people.  However, the donkey boys doesn’t allow us to step down from the donkey! 

We were surprised as they insist us to stay on the donkey as earlier on they have agree to stop by at the major attractions.  Their answer “Yes, we agree to stop you there but not wandering off there! So..we are stopping.  You can even have a better view down here rather than looking at a closer view . “ 

Haha!  We are really speechless but still with a bigger smile thinking we had our terms correct this time around.  Well..seems our term and condition is still loose . This time, the donkey boys are on their ‘good days’…so we didn’t argue much.  Furthermore, the smaller kids really enjoy the donkey ride and insist on continue the ride.  

We continue observing the ancient city beauty on a donkey ride..pass through the Roman theatre, the obelisks, temples, sacrificial altars and colonnaded streets. At the end of our first stop which is agreed upon, we were freely to visit the surroundings at the museum.  It felt great able to get an up close and personal touch with the scenery.  Finally, we able to do the climbing.  Though they ask us not to be long yet we unable to hinder ourselves from climbing and searching the get the best view.  Unaware…it always ends up wanting more and more till we unrealized how high up we have climb specially the kids!  Masyaallah…the view is just great.

Seems the kids really enjoy the donkey ride.  Amzar can even fall into sleep on the ride

Once we have climb up we realize how much things for exploration we have miss along our way.  We were with uncertainty whether to continue our journey with the donkey or not.  Negotiating for half price for a one way rather than two way surely is out o the question.  They must be pissed if getting half the money agreed upon.  We were thinking of a half way back trip which is a loss at our side.  At the end we decided to continue the ride back as what was agreed after everyone (the kids were the majority of the vote ) came up with a mutual agreement…continue with the donkey ride!

Once we get at the end of our stop, we walk back up to the places we intend to stop but fail to do so.  It consume more time as we are going back and forth but it was worth a decision.  The going back trip was full of climbing.  We climb up the Urn Tomb, the roman-style theatre, some other rooms and tombs that interest our eyes. 

colonnaded streets…

The place also called the red stone for its red rock…the rock itself is just a beauty..

the royal tomb….

streets of the facade..many ruins due to flood..

Roman teathre…

The Urn tomb…

At the end of the climbing…the kids were flat!  Now…we have a longer journey walking back till the car park which will take about 3-4 km!  After loosing all the energy walking and climbing a while ago…forcing the kids to walk with the remaining energy sure is challenging till we have a big bribe to keep them walking….”MAGGI in the hotel”..one precious food for them .

The musollah and the toilet sure is clean and unique..luv it..

Souvenirs everywhere…just make sure you’re good with bargaining!

it was a wonderful experience for everyone.  though they were quite tired but it was worth walking and climbing.  the kids also enjoy the donkey ride very much and hope to keep one .  Well…lets see what will we experience for tomorrow… tw&